Remove caulking around the trim plate with a utility knife. Position the new trim plate on the wall. Turn it so that the hot mark on the handle is on the left side. Insert screws through the mounting holes, and tighten the screws to secure it.
Apply a thin bead of silicone caulk around the trim plate. Turn the shower head counterclockwise with your hand to remove it. Grasp the shower arm with a pair of pliers and turn it counterclockwise to remove it and the trim plate. Wrap thread-sealing tape around the threads on the ends of the new shower arm. The horizontal plane of the flange attaches to the edge of the tub, while the vertical plane extends upwards; the tile or tub surround is installed on top, hiding it.
If you have just begun the tub installation and find that there is a gap, consider attaching a flexible tub flange. Once the flange is in place, install the tub surround over the top of it. When the wall is finished, apply a bead of caulk on top of the flange to help give the tub area a finished appearance. Sarabeth Asaff has worked in and has written about the home improvement industry since She has written numerous articles on art, interior design and home improvements, specializing in kitchen and bathroom design.
A member in good standing with the National Kitchen and Bath Association, Asaff has working knowledge of all areas of home design. By Sarabeth Asaff Updated December 19, Related Articles. While the tubs themselves usually have some information they differ from brand to brand.
First, you would waterproof with your favorite liquid waterproofing membrane of choice. In these photos, I used Hydroban liquid waterproofing by Laticrete. Either stopping the cement board above the tub flange or alternately shimming it out and dropping it down near the tub would both be good options.
Shimming it out is probably only feasible if the tub has a really skinny flange like a lot of the steel tubs do. Something like Kerdi-Band or another version. Schluter has some good information about this procedure on their website and in this video:. They show using Kerdi-fix, on the tub flange and thinset mortar on the backer board. Then embed Kerdi-band into those adhesives. I usually have some Wedi sealant in my van and have been placing 2-inch alkaline-resistant mesh tape over the seam and gluing it with Wedi glue.
Utilize whatever you have- Wedi glue, Kerdi fix, or a waterproof polyurethane sealant from a hardware store. Using a small putty knife spread the sealant smooth across the mesh tape. The mesh tape makes me feel a little better about bridging that seam. With Wedi sealant or something similar , you can adhere tile to the surface of it.
So with method 1, you want to keep the sealant as clean as possible and in the gap only- not on the surface. For additional information on mesh tape and backer board please refer to this post. There you have it. Three different ways to treat the tub seam. None according to instructions.
All preferable to doing nothing. The short story, long in email. According to my plumber, I have flex in my shower floor. Followed instructions, but plumber thinks the thinset was too thin and is crumbling. Called his tile guy and they suggested the following: buy can foam, drill down to thinset, inject foam, and hope it works. Should I put down some weight on the floor? Before or right after the foam? This is a last ditch before ripping the floor out and starting over. You could try it and see if it takes the flexing out.
I think weighting the pan immediately after injecting the foam would be a good idea. If you need to replace the pan you will need access to the joint around the perimeter where the wallboard meets the shower pan. If this is already tiled then this row of tile will need to be removed.
Would the liquid membrane adhere to the tub flange? Can you cover the tub-to-backer gap with fabric strip and liquid membrane? I find that it works best to apply the liquid waterproofing membrane first, let it dry, and then use the urethane across the gap.
You could just waterproof all the way down and use fabric like you mentioned. Also, the gap between the tub should be filled with something. Preferably something flexible which is why I like urethane and tape for this. Ok, got it. Is the tape there for thinset to grab on to? When you put tiles over the flange, do you cover the seam and flange with thinset and adhere the tile onto it or do you just let the tiles hang over the flange leaving a void behind it?
Would water get in there and sit on top of the silicone seal at the bottom? What do you do where the backer joins the tub at the very edge of the flange and on the side? More caulking? It would be awesome if you could do a blog post on this.
If the flange is flush with the drywall then I thinset the whole space. It is theoretically possible for water to collect there behind the silicone gap. Weep holes are indentations near the front of the tub designed to let water out before going over the edge. For the sides of the tub I caulk to the backer board.
Will it all just play-doh factory into the void behind the tiles? The technique above will put waterproofing over the screws. This is so helpful. Thank you for all you do. Forums are a mess and this is a nice refreshing place to get info. I did a version of your first suggestion and caulked the gap between the backerboard Hardie and the flange.
I tried to scrape most of it off but it soaked into the board pretty good. Then I applied RedGard down to the caulk line. Then I went over with silicone again on some of the places where the RedGard was peeling off the caulk.
It is sealed and holding fine now. Is it reasonable to expect it will continue to do so or did I do something wrong? Thanks for the comments! My customer has one of those big vinyl rimless flangless tubs. This means that when they fill the tub it will probably flex down. I will be using Kerdi on the walls. What is the best method of water proofing the gap between the Kerdi and the tub? Otherwise you can try to use Kerdi band and Kerdi fix and see if you can seal things up that way.
Menards sold me a drop in whirlpool tub because I did not want an apron but it is to fit in a five foot alcove. Can you help? Thanks for all of your posts and awesome information! It has proven to be most helpful with our DIY tile job! Finally started ripping into the tub surround. I expected a thin flange so I was planning on furring out the studs and dropping the wallboard past the flange.
If I was wrong and the flange was thick, I just do any of the methods above. Trying to squeeze cement board between the studs and tub flange to replicate the current arrangement seems like a bad idea.
I think sistering to the studs would be the way to fix it. This is a good way to fix walls and if you do this start with each corner and once you get the corner studs plumb and straight you can put a straight edge across them and fill in the middle studs.
The middle studs would sit right up to the straight edge and then your whole wall would be straight and ready to tile. Keeping the tub firmly in place is the issue and how to anchor the new supports, not joining the wallboard to the flange. I understand now and I agree that if the Wedi board is keeping things in place I would probably just leave it alone.
You still may have to shim out the studs but maybe only slightly. You may already be aware of these but others reading may not. They are in the drywall section of the hardware store and are cardboard strips.
I staple them to the studs and flatten out the walls that way. But yours is a good example of reading, planning, and preparing only to still run into the unexpected. The framing is actually kind of a mess.
This will take the wall board past the tub flange. The sisters will be cut in at the bottom so I can attach the tub flange to them. The back wall is up against the flange so that will get shimmed and spaced out with plywood. Does that sound reasonable? I think it sounds reasonable. If anything, shorter might be preferable because I think you can just screw into the plywood. Taking photos and mapping out anything important is a good idea. Oh, you mean putting up whole sheets of plywood like sheathing a house exterior?
I meant just put strips of plywood over the studs to space them out. I just looked at that wall and the studs are pretty uneven. I may actually have to put shims under the plywood strips or sheets. But, in that case, I think you would want longer screws to get into the stud as opposed to just the ply. And I definitely recommend the drywall shims. The flatter you get the wall now the easier it will go later. Not so much a question as just sharing relevant experience.
Just finished cleaning up the rim and flange on my americast enamel steel tub. The foam board was behind the flange and tile was set over it. So it was coated with a combination of silicone caulk, wedi glue, grout, and thinset. The wedi glue pretty much came off by rubbing it with your finger. The silicone on the other hand was a real champ: it had to be softened with paint thinner then scraped then the residue rubbed off with the scotch-brite pad. How much a product stretches and how big of a space it can fill is something that comes into play also.
Additionally, Wedi glue is a light gray color. Not sure what the blue color would be. Looking for some advice for my tile install.
I am conflicted about which Ditra product to use. The Schluter website says to use XL for perfect transitions to hardwood, but that is with 7mm tile. With either approach, what would you recommend as far as trowel sizes? Ditra thickness?
I am doing remodel of my bathroom. The questions is which tile end giving more kodern look, the bullnose or the schluter? Thank you! Tile guy nice site for information on tile issues. Great job. Rick from Chicago area. Redoing small full bathroom completely down to studs and subflooring. What are your thoughts on Ditra heat underlayment? Have you ever installed a Kohler castiron showerpan Selient?
What do you think about marble honed tumbled in shower? I see alot of people say they would never do natural stone ever again in shower area. The regular sealing maintenance is a concern for me But love the real look of Queen Beige honed marble. Thank you. I like Ditra Heat underlayment and have a post on it with a couple of tips. My personal preference between the two is for Wedi board but have no issues with Kerdi Board.
Either is fine. The Kohler instructions show that they want the walls furred out so backer board drop down past the flange. Have you had to set and level a tub? Any advice? Mortar is generally used to level them out. You want to set the tub, level it, secure it, and leave it alone until the mortar cures. I think the silicone in the instructions is just there to keep it steady, dampen any movement, and fill gaps.
I figured the thinset would serve a similar function. When I took it out, it was sitting on top of the edge of the old mud bed floor, a stringer on the back wall and a composite decking plank down the center. How level is it expected to be? I worry that I come across as argumentative.
I always appreciate your answers. I, and a lot of other people, would be up the crick without your help. I have a Sioux Chief tile shower drain. We had a clog and instead of the water backing up into the shower, It backed up as high as the flange and went over the flange and under the pan liner and leaked out onto the subfloor and through to the basement. Is that supposed to happen?
You are one of the more active members of this community and your questions help others. I appreciate your contributions and willingness to participate. If the shower contained the water then the water should evacuate down the drain. If this happens when water backs up then this is probably the cause. The underside of the shower liner is supposed to be sealed to the top of the drain flange. I was going to put shims under it to get it overly level and support the front.
Is the Kerdi-fix strong enough to fill and hold up the gap under the apron or is it too soft? The bottom of the tub will be sitting on mortar. If you want something to fill and support I think a spray foam product might work better for that. Time to get the studs straight in the walls around the tub. The situation is the house is 70 years old, the bathroom started out with mud walls on metal lath, and the studs are all out of whack.
It was plaster on purple board and foam board by the time I got to it but the tiles were smaller and not all that straight. I already did the wall at the faucet end of the tub by sistering most of the studs. A few were shimmed with thin planks I ripped to proper thickness on a table saw.
The short wall along the long edge of the tub is exterior and the space is better used for insulation which is already in place. Covering the whole thing in plywood then attaching the CBU to that as you suggested sounds pretty good but I would want to shim out the studs to keep it flat. Can I do the same for narrow strips just along the studs? My next best idea was to trace the contour of the stud bow on a straight-edged 2x, cut it out, and screw it to the stud. Would it be a bad idea to put furring horizontally across the studs and attach cement board and drywall to those?
I would appreciate any tips. Hi Paul, of all the things that you mentioned the only one I really like is the horizontal cross-blocking option but the cross blocks would have to be 16 inches on center at a maximum. But if you can get the bottom flat across then do the same across the top this would allow you to simply put a straight edge on both of these points and bring the center cross blocks out to the straight edge.
This would keep everything flat and inline with each other. Otherwise, sistering is a good way of doing it but I understand that you would rather have insulation in there. Also, planing and shimming can work but it sounds like your existing framing is pretty uneven.
I did do some filming for one before my GoBoard post but it has some gaps and missing segments so it will have to be revisited down the road. How much is it safe to bend a sheet of permabase CBU to put it up over warped studs? If I ever find a place that sells planitop around here, I may just have to rely on that to flatten things out. Too bad about the post. If you have cement board mounted horizontally above the tub and overlapping the tub flange, do you try to avoid having a tapered edge at the bottom?
Could you please recommend specific brands and types of sealants that you use? Typically, I use Wedi sealant as I always have it on hand.
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